- Download slicer prusa how to#
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To properly use TMC with LCD, you want to use TMC with software SPI. You have to do this cable 3 times: one for the SCK, one for the MOSI, and one for the MSIO. These will be used to create the TMC-s SPI stuff. One on the left side and 3 on the other side (image attached). Because we will use driver, we have to solder 3 specific cables female-female (oh gender alert than cable with holes.whatever.). I strongly recommend to buy a lot of jumper wires. IMPORTANT! THESE connections work only if you are using my uploaded marlin, or if you rewire the pinout of the board_ramps.h
Use the classic Ramps14 connections image attached.except endstops its the SAME To make sure this doesn't happen, i pushed some filament into the PTFE. Be careful not to glue the way of the filament. If you couldn't buy heat sink with proper connector, don't worry just glue some PTFE tube into it with some epoxy, like on the image shown. it gives you greater rigidity and stablity to you system. But watch out if the screws too long your Y axis will collide into the frame.įor mounting linear bearing to the bed, instead of U bolts i used zip ties like prusa MK2. To fix the bed use 2mm longer M3 screws for the bed and i used nut to mount the bed, because there are no thread in the laser cut plexi stuff. Use the trapesoidal nut adapter 3d printed part, to mount the leadscrew to the X idlers.
Download slicer prusa manual#
Use the prusa manual to create your printer BASE The differences: Use the coupler to mount the trapezoid screw to the Z motor axis It takes about an hour by hand but much cheaper. Use the 3030 BOSH extrusions to build the frame if you buy 3030 V slot extrusion you have to cut the 4 M5 threads yourself into every extrusion. Cutting files is into the prusa zip files (frame) Get the neccesery 6mm thick 4 plexi frame part. Īditional parts: print 2 pcs from this adapter: I AM going to skip mechanical building instrcutions because it is almost the same as on the original prusa. i have printed most of prusa parts from the web and some additional parts many M3 screws not counted the amount :(, mainly M3x10, M3 20, M3x25, M3x40, M3x30ġ set For Prusa i3 MK2 / MK3 3D clone printer Btech double gears K2E5 M3x5.4x1.8mm A2 STAINLESS STEEL SQUARE THIN NUTS DIN 562 Mk3 Mk52 Spring Steel Iron Heated Sheet Hot Bed Platform (i recommend the original prusa ones for PLA is not working well, later ill test for ABS and PETG) use blue tape on it for better adhesion)
Download slicer prusa how to#
Here is how to use:Ģ x320mm rod 2 x330mm rod and 2x 370 mm rod it is better if you buy stainless steel It is possible to use ATX PSU from old PC-s. Radial Turbo Blower Fan Cooling Fan 50X50X15mm 5X 28Ncm Nema 17 Stepper Motor 0.4A 1.8° 4pcs TMC 2130 v1.1 (so you dont need to solder it for yourself) MK52 hotbed I used 24 Volt editon but now it is possible to find 12 V ones which is better for ramps It is mainly the electronics, i am using RAMPS 14, and 12 V for now. I will only describe the parts i changed. I decided to create my version of Mk3, and i try to built it as cheap as possible. There are so many Mk2 clones but not MK3. I really liked prusa i3 printers, and i fell in love with new features, of the mk3.
Download slicer prusa update#
I am going to update this instructable it is possible i lmissed parts.
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